Whenever I lived in Madrid for any long period of time over the last twentyfive-odd years, the piso or Hostal that was my home was always "challenged" shall we say, in regards to modern conveniences. I still loved them and I didn't compare any of the places to the states (at least not out loud) because that's just the way it was in Madrid.
Like when I lived on c/Santa Brigida between Hortaleza and Fuencarral. Not knowing the mysteries of pisos in Madrid, a group of American students (yes, my group) rented a ground floor, interior apartment (Bajo-Interior). It was dark all the time. You could sleep all day and never know that it was sunny outside. The bathroom was OK though, except the water heater broke a few weeks into our stay and there was NO hot water for a long time, so I moved.
To a piso with all Spaniards on c/Hortaleza. Six people in a two-bedroom apartment (one brother and his mother stayed in the living room). Of course there was no heat and brother Jose was very fond of smoking Ducados non-stop.... with the windows closed..... in winter. The water heater was electric and beyond tiny. You had to plug it in 30 minutes before showering. Once in the shower, you would wet yourself down - then you turned off the water - soaped up - then you turned the water back on - and then rinsed off. That's all the time, and all the hot water you had. Next step, freeze your ass off getting dressed.
Or in the Hostal R. Canal on c/Huertas. There, I actually had a very luxurious room with a view of the Plaza del Angel..... but no bathroom. I think we had heat, but since it was Huertas, the disco on the ground floor started thumping around 1:00 am or so, until about 6:00 am - but only on the weekends, so that was good.
Next it was Lavapies, on c/Cabestreros, pretty much all the same conveniences were lacking in this Piso. Couple this with fearing for my life dodging drug dealers any time I stepped out of the Apartment. The neighborhood was pretty dicey back then - but it's getting better.
Between these places there where numerous stays at pensiones and hostales (never a hotel - too broke) where the beds sagged in the middle, the toilet paper was rationed, the tubs were the sizes of buckets, and the streets blared outside. So very early on, I dreamed of my own Piso Madrid where I could do whatever it took to solve these convenience issues. So I did, but I think I may have gone overboard.
These are the modern conveniences of which Piso Madrid now boasts:
- Gas from the city (how did we do without this?)
- Dual-paned windows (this is OK everyone has this now)
- Central heating (everyone has this too)
- A kick-ass German water heater (not too out of line)
- Every light switch on a dimmer (what? - not necessary!)
- A clothes dryer (pushing it ... a little too American)
- Garbage disposer - carried by me on the plane
(This freaks Madrilenos out!)
- Speakers wired through the "falso techo" in Kitchen and salon.
(not necessary - but cool!)
But the COLMO is!.... I am the embarrassed owner of not one, not two, but THREE HUGE air-conditioning compressors hanging in the patio (light well) of my piso for all my neighbors to see. I really don't know how this happened. I sent my L.A. buddy, Agapito, to Madrid for some R & R. I thought that while he was there he could call about putting some AC in the living room? You know, just for those really hot days. Well, I guess the salesman got a hold of him and now I am the poster boy for causing global warming in Madrid! I'm sure the irony does not escape anyone..... An American .... excessive comforts .... everything is our fault.....! It is a little awkward. Talk about living up to a stereotype.
You know, I have improved my surroundings immensely. I have AC, heating, and a freaking garbage disposer, but there was something about the experience of Jose's Ducados and constant cafelitos that will not come again. The electric water heater was a pain, but I will never forget it. And my Spanish rocked back when I lived with five Madrilenos! You can keep the interior piso bajo though.
Like that old rule that always holds true, when you fix one problem you create another. Madrid (like everywhere) is changing, and it's not just my piso with it's modern conveniences. Many of the past charms are no longer. It is just the inevitable improvement (and destruction) of the old Madrid.
Monday, July 2, 2007
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